nineteen sixty-eight

WHERE WERE WE? I wondered. Then one of a pack of school boys turned my way and said, “Don’t you know, you’re in 1968!” Is that why everything was so weirdly sepia-toned, as if we had all stepped out of one of those ancient, musty smelling album covers, like Waiting for the Sun by The Doors, or Pisces, Aquarius, Capricorn & Jones Ltd. by The Monkees? A strange place was 1968, one foot in the past, one in the future. People’s hair was merely growing then, but had not yet achieved its 1970s freak-flag length. Wide collars, floppy hats. What was I even doing in this murky picture of the past? I was standing outside a school on a street. The boys from 1968 turned and went one way, and I went the other. A girl in a plaid dress passed me by.

It was autumn in 1968, a rainy autumn, or was it a rainy spring? It was cool, moist, there were wet leaves on the mottled asphalt of the street. I walked and walked and soon I was in my old neighborhood on Long Island, which wouldn’t be built for another 17 years or so, but here it was, and the houses were all finished. Jocko and his family were outside their home, which was across the street from my old house, and the sun had just come out. We used to play right over there, in the sand dunes between his house and the neighbors’, and wrestle in the mud. One time he even sprayed us with his sister’s tropical perfume, which made the hornets and the bees of the neighborhood go wild with lust. This time, he was kneeling before a stack of roofing tiles while his brothers did the hard work. I put my hand on his shoulder. “Are you doing okay, man?” I said. Jocko looked up at me, good-natured Sicilian that he was, and said, “Yeah, of course. Just this renovation job is taking forever.” It was. The façade was missing. I could see his room up on the second floor, the wind gusting through. “Where do you sleep at night?” I asked Jocko. “We have to sleep here,” he sighed. “But it sure does get cold at night.”

In the back of the house, I found stacks of utility uniforms, the kinds that construction workers wear. These piles formed elaborate patterns, so that it almost looked like they were a deck of playing cards. I was baffled by the uniforms and knew not what to make of the find.

From there, I walked on.

Eventually, I wound up back at the school where I started. It was a brick building, like all of the school buildings in the district, which had been, per chance, constructed in 1968. I stood there waiting outside of the school while other parents waited for their children. Just then, my friend El Scorcho, a Latin folk singer with a faint moustache I knew from Estonia, arrived. He came down the hill on his bicycle to the sounds of Simon and Garfunkel. He too was here in 1968, and his clothing was of the modern fashion. He wore a brown leather jacket, his black hair was becoming unruly, and he smelled of incense and marijuana. As soon as he saw me, he slowed his peddling and came to a stop. “Oh, you’re here too. You’re in 1968 too,” he said. “What are we doing in 1968?” I asked him. “Beats me,” he said. “I’ve been stuck in 1968 all week. But do you want to get some tacos? I found a place that’s good. Jim Morrison even goes there.”

frida and saskia

FRIDA AND SASKIA came to visit Estonia. They booked for themselves an exclusive suite in an Old Town hotel, one with its own traditional sauna. We sat by the fireplace in the suite together, waiting for the sauna to warm up and drinking tea. Saskia was at the table, thumbing through a fresh copy of Eesti Ekspress. Frida’s older sister looked the same, with her red-hair parted down the center, and she was wearing a t-shirt with a vest over it. I’m not sure why Saskia was so engrossed by Ekspress, because she couldn’t understand a word of the Estonian language, but maybe she liked the cartoons? She seemed in high spirits, whatever the case.

Frida stretched out on the couch. She was wearing a dark dress, maybe black, maybe navy colored, and seemed quite tired from all the travel and very unimpressed. Her brown hair fell across the couch pillows like waves of grain tossed about by an autumn wind, and she reminded me of one of those slightly jaded Romanov princesses from before the Revolution. I surveyed this woman from end to end and from head to toe. Frida looked me over with a glum mix of pity and boredom. She yawned. I took a blanket and draped it over her legs. “Why did you do that?” Frida said. “I was afraid you might get cold,” I told her. “But I wasn’t cold,” she said. She took out her phone and showed it to me. There was a photo of her and her husband there. They were embracing each other and both topless. Frida put the phone quickly away. “I’m a married woman. Married.” She repeated the word as if it had great eternal meaning.

“But married women also need to stay warm,” I said.

Saskia looked up from the newspaper at that moment. “Cute!” was all she said. She smiled at me. “Frida, do you remember him being so cute? Because I had no memory of him being so cute. He sure is cute!” “That’s always nice to hear,” I said. Frida lounged on in tranquil lethargy, eyeing me with a mix of frustration and half-amused interest. The nerve of this man to barge into her life again like this. Why couldn’t he just let her go? Why did it keep on happening?

I presented her next with a gift, a box wrapped in old-fashioned wrapping paper with small evergreen trees painted on it. Frida carefully undid its ribbon, and opened the parcel in a way that the paper could be reused. Inside there was a small toy piano, like the type that Fisher Price might make, except made of metal. Frida gave me a funny look and pressed down on the keys. The piano made a playful, tinny, musical sound. “This is for your children,” I told Frida.

To be honest, I had no idea how many children she had. We hadn’t spoken in years and I knew nothing about her anymore, other than it was her fixed policy and heartfelt desire that I would continue to know nothing. Frida gave me a clear-blue-eyed glance and a sad half smile. I stroked her legs again. Then Saskia set the copy of Ekspress down abruptly and looked over. “Well, you two love birds” she said. “I think the sauna is ready now.” It was ready. It was hot.

b‐boys makin’ with the apteek

AD-ROCK AND MIKE D were in the Raeapteek. Ad-Rock was wearing his red t-shirt and Mike D toted a stolen VW hood ornament around his neck. It was a summer’s day and there was light through the windows. It fell upon the jars of burnt bees, bleached dog feces, dried deer penises, and other potent medieval remedies. They were impressed, to say the least, especially by the thick, ancient volumes of the Burchard family, the original owners of the apothecary which, to their surprise, were full of dope rhymes about wack aldermen and fly maidens.

I be smokin’ roaches in the vestibule, in the next millennium I’ll still be old school.

“But where’s Yauch,” I asked? “Yauch went to Helsinki,” Ad-Rock said. “He did what?” “Yeah, he wanted to go to Linnanmäki. To see the amusement park.” I could picture him then, with his nose to the sea, sniffing at the Gulf of Finland. But I was worried about Yauch. After Linnanmäki, he might go to the aquarium. After the aquarium, to Heureka. After Heureka, straight to Serena Water Park. My main worry was that Yauch might never come back. He’d be stuck in Finland forever. He might even wind up in Oulu. He’d be over there and we’d be over here. We’d have our dope rhymes and bleached dog feces, but it just wouldn’t be the same.

“Hey man, you don’t need to worry,” Ad-Rock said softly and put his hand on my shoulder. “Yauch always comes back.”

registration

ESMERALDA came in wearing a green dress. She arrived with the others, pointing out her name at the registration with her pretty ringed fingers. Her name was there, as was mine just a few lines away. I was surprised that she even remembered me. I was certain I had been entirely forgotten, maybe even on purpose.

She had skipped town months before, but here she was again. I asked Esmeralda where she had been. If she only knew how many bleak nights I had walked home thinking of her, or half expecting her to appear from some shadow or behind some corner, only to whistle alone in lonesomeness. She said that she had been busy. ‘I’ve just been busy,’ she said. Esmeralda was a busy kind of woman.

In the summer, during the festival, I would watch her walking up and down the street. She was always talking to someone, and she was mostly in a good mood when she wasn’t having one of her sad-looking sulky sad days, when she drooped in the corner staring out the café windows and sighed.

I asked Esmeralda why she hadn’t responded to any of my love letters, but she told me that there was no need to. “Pole vaja ju.” No need! She did this fluidly, as if she was dancing between the registration desk and the coffee. There were many bureaucrats in white shirts buzzing around. Her potato brown hair was pulled back. There was something about those eyes too. Esmeralda has clever, fox-like eyes.

I could see her soft comforting milky whiteness poking out of the top of that dress, the same way you might see a gold coin reflecting the sunlight at the bottom of a pool. “But you do know that I love you,” I told her. Esmeralda only smiled, her smart eyes drawing up into half moons. She placed a finger on my lips and said, “Hush, hush, hush.”

sand street beach

I SWAM OUT to the end of the bay, to where it connects with the sound, just off the point. The water was darker and deeper here and the current was just too strong. Turning back was hopeless, so I let the water carry me all the way around the point to Sand Street Beach. Remember Sand Street Beach? Wasn’t there even a little shelter there, at least in the old days? Maybe it’s still there, with the names of aspiring lovers carved into its sturdy wooden walls.

Joanie loves Chachi.

It was there there that I emerged, dripping salt water and sand. It wasn’t such a long walk home, but a storm was setting in, and the air was thick with thunder and that ominous grayblue feeling. The wind picked up and danced with the cedar branches and I began the hike. Sand Street connected to Christian Avenue. Christian Avenue intersected with Quaker Path. I had this feeling all along that a hundred eyeballs were watching me through the windows of white clapboard houses that had once belonged to dead whaling ship captains.

airport cat

IN MY TIME AWAY from Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport they had constructed a gleaming towering hotel on the eastern flank with views of Ülemiste Lake on one side and the runways and tree lines on the other. The architecture and interior was Nordic noir. The joint was decked out like an IKEA store at Christmas. Spare and white. Glass and metal. The words of a Romanian comic came to mind, “Estonia is like Norway, if Norway was made in China.” There was something to that, I thought as I rode the glass elevator down to the Departures area.

Descending, I noticed that the cat was sleeping in the hallway on the second floor. How did she even get there? She looked lost, with that inquisitive pink nose of hers up in the air, sniffing at the dry hotel air. Quickly I pressed at the buttons in the lift, trying to get out to rescue the cat, but the elevator arrived to the ground floor, some irritating tourists got in, and on the way back up to the top of the hotel, I saw that the cat was no longer on the second floor, but had gone up with the other elevator to the eighth floor. Again, I pressed the buttons in the elevator, but it was impossible to get out on the right floor. I was worried. What if she was to venture out onto the runway, only to be crushed, pancaked and splattered by the rubber wheels of a jet? My children would never forgive me for allowing the death of the cat.

Something had to be done.

When the elevator opened its doors again though, I was on the backside of the airport. I got onto a bus that took me all the way around to the other side of the airport, where the various rental car companies have their offices. Other irritating and slow tourists departed the bus here. Some were hugging each other on the escalators. As soon as I got off that bus, I began running through the airport. This part of it had changed too. It looked more like Arlanda, with Pippi Longstocking-inspired play areas for children, as well as counters loaded with cinnamon buns and open-faced sandwiches. Bookstores with Pride flags. There I was, rushing through the airport, trying to save the beloved black-and-white family cat. About halfway through, my wife came walking my way with the children. She was not amused by this funny airport scene.

“Why are you running through the airport like a lunatic?” she asked. “What’s wrong with you? I can’t take you anywhere.” “But I was trying to save the cat! She could get runover by a Ryanair jet.” My wife gave me a strange look. “What are you talking about, save the cat? The cat’s right there. She’s enjoying herself.” She gestured at the cat, who was sitting beneath a fake palm tree in the play area, biting her paws. “Come along,” she said to my youngest as they walked away. “Your father is weird.”

mons

ON INDEPENDENCE DAY, we went to visit a producer in Helsinki, an older man whom I suspected of carrying on an extramarital liaison with my wife. We all went to visit him, and I decided to keep my mouth shut and not say anything, even as the two of them disappeared into the back garden to “talk about things.” I was in the living room with the kids, both mine and his own grandkids, I believe. We were watching TV and then we all fell asleep. There was a large tabby cat beside me. I could hear the cat purr. In the middle of the night, the cat awoke and went outside and I followed it out into the city shadows. I wandered past the cathedral.

I found my way to the Helsinki train station, the Helsingin Päärautatieasema. I got on the first train I saw, seconds before it was about to leave the station, found a seat inside, and again shut my eyes and began to dream deep. When I opened them, it was daylight and we were surrounded by the heather of the Scottish countryside, some ways south of Glasgow. Riken the Japanese mountaineer was seated across from me with his knapsack, looking over a paper map. He was marking his route with a short pencil. “Where does this train go?” I asked him. “Mons,” came the response. “This is the train to Mons.” “But where is Mons?” “It’s a little city to the south of here.” “I’ve never heard of it. I need to go back to Finland.” The train pulled up to an elevated platform in the middle of nowhere and Riken disembarked. “Don’t be such a nervous nelly,” Riken said, with that handkerchief of his on his head. “Just stay on the train.”

I leaned back in my seat and watched the Scottish countryside roll by and again shut my eyes for a while. When I opened them again, I was in the back of a truck driving up the sandy roads of Cape Hatteras National Seashore. We passed through Rodanthe, Pea Bridge, Whalebone, and Kitty Hawk, until the road would go no further. I could see fishermen out in the inlets pulling in nets full of fish. We began to hike into the jungles that separated the Carolina line from the Virginia line. The seawater was warm here, and we encountered a group of indigenous people diving for lobsters and crabs and filling buckets with them. This was a local tribe that was doing work for some company, but the owner was not there on the job site. His lone, shake-sided house stood on the sandy bank that separated the bay side from the Atlantic Ocean. “Which way should we go to get home?” someone asked. One of the Natives showed us into the forest. There was a trail that began here, leading deeper into the swamps and jungles.

The Native gestured with his head. “This is the way home,” he said.

crane neck

DR. STERN’S HOUSE was at the end of Crane Neck. He was a gynecologist, I think. Or an orthodontist. Something like that. He wasn’t home when I arrived to this cedar-shaked masterpiece of architectural fusion, a crisscross of colonial and modernist influences. The property was green, the driveway pebbled. Birds glared down silently from the oaks and the maples. The taxi driver left me at the gate and I walked up to the house and went inside.

Inside the house, there were various characters hanging out and passing through. One of them was a businessman of the old breed, with a pocket watch and pince-nez glasses. He said he had made a fortune rigging baseball games in his day, but had discovered a new source of wealth and materiel: diamonds. He had on a red coat and was walking through the kitchen talking about his dealings in the gem business. There was a skylight and the gray light of the day shone down on his whiskers. “Indeed, the gem business is the best business, if I say so.”

Behind him, my grandmother emerged. Her hair had taken on a golden hue and she was more animate than ever. “Grandma? Is that really you?” She grabbed me by both hands and we spun in circles. “I’m 106 years old,” she said, “and I haven’t felt this good since the New York Yankees won the 1941 World Series!” There were others behind her carousing and I wondered what kind of parallel reality was dawning on me. Grandma kept telling me how great she felt and looked now that she was dead. She said so in her very genteel and proper Virginia accent.

Grandma let go of my hands and like that, I was out in the garden and the grounds were covered in snow. I was with my daughter and we began walk through a series of stalls, not unlike the little putkad that dot the Town Hall Square in Tallinn during the Christmas Fair. Everywhere I looked though, I only saw stacks of baked goods. Flour, flour, and more flour, covered with sugar, sugar, and more sugar and some chocolate. I bought my daughter some tasty candied quince in a paper bag and we walked away from the market, only to be chased down by several wild big black dogs. When a hellhound like that falls on you, it’s a real terror. My daughter fell in the snow as the dogs got closer, so I ran over and pulled her back into the house by her arm. I remember just seizing her by the hand and pulling the girl back inside.

And then I opened my eyes. We were back in the kitchen of the house and the sunlight was on our faces. Someone announced, “Dr. Stern is here to take you home now.” We went outside and there he was, standing beside a black 1934 Buick Victoria. It was a beauty of an automobile. He was wearing a purple tie-dye Grateful Dead shirt and had on a pair of khaki shorts. He had curly hair and seemed like the kind of doctor who had smoked a lot of dope back in med school. “Well, what are you all waiting for?” said Dr. Stern, opening the door to the black Buick. “Just get in!”

two gunnas

I GOT MYSELF a little helicopter, just like James Bond’s Little Nelly from You Only Live Twice, flying out to the east of the island, admiring all of the pine trees and swamps. Keeping close to the estuary, I looked down only to see Jack, a British adventurer in a khaki jacket, hiking across the wetlands with his son. Beside them was an enormous brown lump. It looked moist, pungent. Jack looked up at me and waved, I could see his gray hair. “Ahoy, what is that thing down there?” I shouted above the rotor sounds. Jack shouted back, “It’s a giant poo, mate!”

At the other end of the bay, I set Little Nellie down. Gunna was there, with her fringe or bangs cut across the front. She was at her usual position in the shop, wearing her apron, and appearing rather matter of fact. But over at the juice and taco bar, I encountered Gunna again, blending fruits and vegetables and scooping salsa. I looked back over to shopgirl Gunna, only to discover she was there at the same time. How could it be? How could Gunna be in two places at once? “But didn’t you know there are two of us?” Gunna said. She had a lovely, toothy smile. I once told Gunna that her smile was my greatest birthday present. I kept looking back and forth at the two Gunnas. “Yes, she is me and I am also me,” Gunna said. “We’re all me.”

“But how can that be?” I asked, scratching my head. “Because there are as many of me as there needs to be,” Gunna said, making another taco. She really was a cute girl. She looked like a three year old in a full-grown woman’s body. I reconciled myself to the idea of there being many manifestations of Gunna, just as all seven Matrikas were thought to be manifestations of Lakshmi. Each manifestation of Gunna, the Hindus had said, embodied some different aspect. Indeed, temple art unearthed by archaeologists showed the many faces of the goddess Gunna.

“She is me and I am also me,” she said. “She is me and I am also me.”

minor swing

I HAD A GO at the guitar playing “”Minor Swing.” There was even a small audience around me. To be honest, it was the only tune I could convincingly play and my hands were clumsy. It was recognizable, and it gave one the impression that I knew what I was doing. Most people had heard “Minor Swing” somewhere, maybe in a movie, or maybe playing the back of some coffeehouse. I was surrounded by women dressed in silvery gowns, again those flapper women from the 1920s parading around my subconscious. They were supple, silverwhite, and lovely.

This was all taking place at some neoclassical mansion on the coast of oligarchy and oblivion.

Of course, Rhys Jonathan had to show up at this point. We used to sit next to each other in AP History. He was wearing a blue polo shirt and a baseball cap. I handed the instrument over to him and he began to wow and astonish. Zola, one of the silver-draped flapper women, draped her hands over his shoulders and neck. I grunted “yeah,” because that’s what fellow musicians do during gypsy jazz performances. Yeahhh. This is how we all show how pleased we are. Watching Zola caress Rhys, I understood I had lost her. She was with him now, him and his agile fingers. “I told you,” I said to Rhys. “You’re the next Al Di Meola.” “No way,” he said, strumming and plucking away. “No way I’m Al Di Meola.” “Yes way,” I said. “You are Di Meola.”

I left Rhys with his flapper groupies and went for a walk around the terrace. Adam, another old high school classmate was there. This lanky, sandy-haired troublemaker had later joined the Israeli Defense Forces, and was trying to chase away shellshock and PTSD by consuming handfuls of mochi. I put my hands on his shoulders, told him that everything would be jake.

Halfway down the terrace, between many other partygoers, I encountered Igrayne. She was crying because she hadn’t been invited to one of her friend’s birthday parties. Igrayne was seated there on the edge of the terrace with tears in her eyes. She was wearing a crisp white blouse. Her gold hair was pulled back. Up on the terrace, I could still hear Rhys Jonathan serenading the women playing “Minor Swing,” just better. Then I started to kiss young Igrayne. Her lips were full and pink. I didn’t know what else to do. “They didn’t invite me,” she sobbed.

How else do you stop a bereaved girl from crying?