IF PEOPLE HAD EVER colonized the moon, they would have built such houses. White stone rectangles clustered across the lunar black rock interior of Lanzarote. This is the most volcanic Canary Island, the least vegetated. The capital Arrecife is just a conurbation of white housing blocks, sectioned off by streets and palm trees. To its south is Puerto del Carmen, the resort town, where there are hotels, pools, tennis courts, and holiday guests. Most of them are English, but some of the guests are Estonians too. There are some Welsh people here as well.
“That’s why we make you pay a toll at the end of the bridge,” a Welsh woman shouted at an Englishman by the pool. “To stop all you English from coming into our bloody country!”
You can find the Estonians ringing the pools, paperbacks in hand. Their goal is to soak up the sun, to get brown by the second of June, et saada pruuniks, teiseks juuniks, as the refrain to a popular song goes. Upon return to the fatherland, the quality of their vacation will be assessed by their skin tone. The old ladies will grip them by the wrist outside the Konsum supermarket and study them through their spectacles. “Oh, my, look how brown you are, dear.” This is what the Estonians pay for. Some tan well, becoming a moreno mellow gold, and the ones with light hair and light eyes look exotic with their brown skin. Others cannot get brown for their lives, but rather turn more miserable shades of wet pink, like a melting strawberry ice cream.
Estonians on holiday are not really friendly to other Estonians. There is little sense of camaraderie in crossing the paths of fellow countryman on a far-off isle. They do come from a rather small country and speak a rather unique language, but this is viewed as purely incidental, a rather irrelevant technicality. Those other Estonians are still strangers. I’m reading The Shipping News by Annie Proulx. I identify with Quoyle. My daughter is like Bunny.
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I don’t have the resources to put on an Italian or Estonian Easter for our daughter, aged 8, who is with me this Easter on Lanzarote. When we booked the package trip a year ago, we must not have paid attention exactly to when Easter was. To put on an Italian Easter requires family, and we have no other family here, and it also requires a feast, and I don’t have the patience or skill to assemble trays of manicotti and lasagne for just two people. To put on an Estonian Easter requires a box of eggs and a bag of onions, just so I can use their peels to dye the eggs that wonderful kaleidoscopic color, as the Estonians do. Then she and I can play that game where you hit the eggs against each other to see whose egg is strongest. Whoever thought up that game must have been really bored. I decide to give the girl an American Easter. I purchase a dozen chocolate eggs from a nearby shop and hide them in our bungalow. She finds them.
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Every night at the resort there is a children’s disco. Could there be any better evidence of the success of the European project than an Estonian girl sipping ginger ale through a straw and playing games with German, Dutch, and Danish children? Her best friends are a set of red-headed twin girls from England. They get into all kinds of mischief. They get sticky goo from a vending machine full of cheap kids toys and toss it until it sticks to the ceiling. Then they stand on the pool table and use the cues to scrape it down. Sometimes I have to help them.
Mimmo, a Sicilian with a pencil-thin mustache and white hat who entertains the children during the disco, has befriended me because according to him we are both Italians. Canarios can count the number of Americans they’ve seen on the islands on one hand. Maybe four.
The woman who entertains the children with Mimmo is named Marcela. She is a native Canaria and is very vibrant, loud, playful, enthusiastic, voluptuous. Marcela has chestnut hair and green eyes and freckles on her cheeks. Canarian women are as welcome to me as the sun itself. Whenever I see Marcela, or Teresa, who is from La Gomera but lives on Lanzarote, and who works at the supermarket down the street, I feel warm. I linger there as I buy bananas.
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After breakfast, I rent a car and we drive to the north of the island. We leave Puerto del Carmen and then pass Arrecife, ride along the pretty rocky coastline to Guatiza, Mala, Arrieta, and Punta Mujeres. “Are you sad you’re not with your family on Easter?” I ask my daughter, who is half dozing in the passenger’s side seat, while munching on a bag of potato chips. “No,” she says. We pass some more black stretches of volcanic rock and come into Orzola, a fishing village at the north end of the island. The main street is called Calle la Quemadila, where we park our car. Many rows of white rectangle houses, some trimmed with royal blue, stand along the street. Mysterious Canarian women with chestnut hair blowing in the salty wind, their hard-luck brothers pressing seafood menus into hands. The cafes are full of locals, fishermen with white curly hair and thick brown fingers smoking pipes and lazing aimlessly in the sun.
I feel so comfortable here, on an island. I grew up on an island, and when I am in Estonia, I hear from the people of Hiiumaa Island and Saaremaa Island that they feel the same. We need the sea around, a coast, a line where things begin and end. Who could really settle for a river or a hill with a castle on top? To live inland will drive any real islander mad. To stare out at the sea, to look out on all that endless blue, that blends into the sky, blends into more blue gives one a feeling of solitude that is awesome, infinite, and terrifying. It swallows all, just like time.
By the harbor, I see there is an apartment for rent. “Do you like it here?” I ask my daughter, her yellow hair tossed about by the ocean winds. “Yes, I do,” she says. “It’s so warm here, and in Estonia it’s still so cold. Estonia is like, well, like a cold land.” A bead of sweat leaves her forehead and runs down her cheek. It looks like a tear. We could just take that room for rent, get a plate of fried fish, I think. Later go back the hotel to pick up our things. There’s nothing to lose. There’s nowhere to run to, as Martha and the Vandellas once sang, nowhere to hide.
Se Alquila.
We could just stay here now if we really wanted to.
Written in March 2016, revised April 2024
north! 